easiest knitted sweater zipper install ever
One of the more dreaded knitting finishing techniques is installing a zipper. I admit it, I’ve never been a fan either. There are multiple helpful zipper tutorials out there, and I’ve used a few of them. I always came back with the same issue though; you lay out the sweater, you center the zipper underneath and try to baste in the zipper. The problem is as soon as you pick up a piece of knitted fabric, it does what knitted fabric does. It stretches and drapes and wiggles out of that straight taut line. You’re trying to sew a stiff tape with no give onto a floopy material. It’s like trying to get a pair of tights on a squirmy three-year-old. If you’re a perfectionist like me, it’s a nightmare.
I think I’ve found a solution though. If I’m remembering correctly, it’s something that StashKnitRepeat Amy tipped me off to two summers ago. I used it to sew in a zipper on one of the Knitting it Old School
sweaters and then I used it again last week finishing Pump Jockey.
Hold on while I blow your mind at the simplicity.
Blocking wires.
They hold the knitted fabric in place and stablize the whole deal. It’s so simple, yet so effective. I’m already looking at knitting another sweater that needs a zipper. That’s how well it worked.
Here’s how I did it:
I started by weaving in two blocking wires on each side of the sweater fronts. One right along the first set of stitches right on the edge, the other about 4 or 5 stitches away.
With my small rotary mat inside the sweater, I placed the zipper underneath the sweater fronts taking care to center it directly under the edges.
While it was still laying there all correctly positioned, I pinned one side of the zipper tape down between the blocking wires
Starting at the bottom, I began backstitching the zipper in along the teeth edge first, and then once more along the edge of the zipper tape.
I came up through the zipper tape, into the sweater between two columns of stitches.
And then back down a row or so, taking care to stay in the same column of stitches. This puts the thread in the ditch between stitches and is invisible from the front.
It will look like this from the backside when you’re done with the first side of the zipper
Leaving the blocking wires in, I put it back down on the mat and pin basted the other side.
I then opened and separated the two sides of the zipper to sew in the other half. Obviously this step needed feline assistance. Thanks, Mother!
And that was it! I took the blocking wires out as the last step and had a zipper installation that was painless.
Crazy easy, right?
(8 votes, average: 5.00 out of 5)
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BRILLIANT.
Totally genius. So, hand stitched only is strong enough for a busy zipper?
I think because it’s backstitched and not a running stitch and done twice per zippertape side. Boon has been wearing his everyday since I finished and when I looked closely yesterday, it’s not showing any sign of wear.
wow, seriously. I have one of these to do this week and that is going to make my life SO much easier! Thank you! -off to go find my blocking wires…
I’ve typically shied away from patterns calling for zippers but your tutorial has left me feeling empowered! I’ve never thought about using my blocking wires like that. Fantastic! (I’d probably follow up the hand stitching with a quick pass through my sewing machine though. My hand sewing skills are marginal at best). Love the little red peekaboos in your folded seams! Very cute cardi!
This makes me feel like I should invest in blocking wires immediately–although I agree that I’d probably follow up with machine-stitching after basting it in. I have no faith in my hand-stitching abilities!
What a perfect way to install a zipper! Brava!
I get all jazzed about process tricks and tips, so thanks for this one. I love a tidy finish.
Ah, such a clever solution! I have a sweater I don’t wear much because of a faulty zipper installation. I’ll have to try this.
You just totally blew my mind. My last zipper was such an ordeal I’ve been afraid to knit something else that needs one. This makes it sound… well, not horrible.
Really excellent tutorial! I love when there’s such a good solution to an ongoing problem and someone points it out to me. And on a Monday. Double snaps!
Excellent, Caro! This looks so do-able — and your instructions are so clear!
I’m dying here – this is so perfect.
I’ve only done one zipper install – also on the one and only sweater hubby ever asked for.
It worked – but I never could achieve perfection and one side of the cardi droops lower than the other (maybe only enough for me to see it, but no matter).
I struggled mightily with it to get even that good.
So this technique just looks like a dream to me.
Thank you so much for sharing – and now here’s to more zippers in my knitting future.
BRILLIANT!
and if you go to a plumbing supply store and buy welding wires (non-rusting!)instead of blocking wires they’ll only cost you about $2.00 for 6.
Ok, you just made my whole day!! And Carol S, GREAT tip about welding wires. You guys rock!
gosh, you make it seem so straightforward. and you make me want to start…and finish…a sweater so i can try this.
Excellent! This makes so much sense. I’ve tagged this so I don’t forget about it.
I can’t begin to tell you how giddy this has made me. Maybe now I can re-do the zip on my ancient ribby cardi so it’s a wearable sweater again, instead of a Hall of Shame knit I can’t bring myself to let go. Thank you!!
Thank you thank you thank you. I’ve had a Noni bag languishing for months b/c I couldn’t find a way to get the #@** zipper in. Blessings to you.
Terrific!!
Gee, it does sound easy. I’ve never did anything that needed a zipper,
but I will invest in blocking wires just in case. Actually I’m knitting
a lace shawl and they might help with that also.
Thanks for the tutorial.
I have always avoided zippers in the past. Maybe I need to rethink this…..That looks so easy!
Wow, just … wow. An elegant solution, which is “geek” for “it’s the best.” What a great use of blocking wires, too.
The zipper world is shifting on its axis for knitters. First, there was TECHknitter’s knit-the-zipper-in solution (in the Winter 2010 Interweave Knits mag, but she links the video from her site), also truly elegant, but from a different angle. Now there is your hold-it-in-place-with-blocking-wires approach. Two FANTASTIC and unique answers to a major knitting migraine.
I thank you from the bottom of my heart and from the tab of the separating zippers I can now use in my knits.
Caro, that is pure genius. I had just finished admiring TECHknitter’s technique of using a latch hook, but this is even more elegant in its simplicity. Thank you for the great tutorial!
Brilliant!
Wow! Thanks to the folks at Webs for point us your way. I have had a sweater (and its zipper) waiting for months for me to put it in. I had tried one way but it ended in frustration. Fortunately, I just broke down and bought myself blocking wires.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
Thank you, this is pure genius. Simple, effective, brilliant.
What a terrific technique. I always have trouble keeping everything straight. This solves it! Thank you.
Very cool. Thanks for the tip.I’ll have to buy a set of blocking wires now.
Coming from Grosgrain’s blog to say that this is pure genius. Now I’ll actually go knit something that needs a zipper just to do this.
This is so brilliant! Thanks for sharing!
[...] of my Sarahs pointed this out to me: “the easiest knitted zipper install ever.” I’ve only installed a zipper once, but this seems really, really clever and I will be trying [...]
I run a knitting finishing business and I have never seen a method as brilliant as this. My customers will love you!
I love this tutorial, it is awesome!
Thanks for sharing – I hope to be able to buy blocking wires in Denmark.
Awesome idea! I’ve got a vest I want to make, and was not looking forward to my first experience putting zippers into knits. This is genius.
Genius! Thanks so much for sharing!
I have made a hooded baby sweater with a zipper down the back for countless baby/shower gifts. I always crochet around the edges. This helps to keep the sweater from stretching when you start sewing. I usually pin, baste, and then sew by hand.
bookmarked!
It easier than I thougth
Thank you very much!
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